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Just finished up a great trip with Paul Petzl and his friends Gerard and Martine from Annecy. We got up some nice routes including Nutcracker, Central Pillar of Frezy, Bishop’s Terrace and West Country(in Tuolumne).
Besides climbing, on rest/rain days we slacklined in Camp 4, visited Glacier Point, and ate way too much at the Curry Village Buffet. Martine is a doctor with a keen memory and desire to improve her English; and that consequently helped my French as well. It was Gerard’s first time in the Valley and even with years of guiding and first ascents all over the world, he was awed by El Cap.
Oh, and legend has it that the real Smokey the Bear was found somewhere in CA near Yosemite.
Polartec has always been a company dear to my heart and my body in the mountains. I have always searched out more breathable softshells for my efforts in the Alps. So when I was invited to be a member of their Advisory Board, I didn’t hesitate.
The advisory board consists of eleven world class endurance athletes who were charged with the mission of dreaming, testing, and talking about current and future Polartec products. We were invited to the world headquarters in Lawrence, MA, USA and had a five star welcome. Besides exploring the manufacturing facilities, we met with everyone there from Designers to Directors to Marketers. We got a thorough explanation of all the fabrics and a peek into the future with some great technologies coming up.
The friendly vibe and warm welcome made it a highlight of my trip back to the US this fall. I enjoyed meeting and working with the whole crew and am looking forward to working hard to develop some great products.
In celebration of the 10th anniversary of High-Alpine Mountain Guides, I am launching this blog in order to share up-to -date news of my climbs and skis, current conditions, gear reviews and technique tips.
With my 10th year guiding in the Alps, and 22 years total, I would like this blog to be a place to share my different experiences relating to the outdoors and guiding.
Check out the blog and my website (http://www.high-alpine.com/) and feel free to let me know if you have any questions or comments.
Photo #1: This was a quick trip for Richard. He is extremely busy as the Executive Director of the Global Fund, a non-profit with the sole mission to eradicate AIDS, Tuberculosis and Malaria in developing countries. My claim to fame is Richard once canceled a meeting with Kofi Annan to climb with me. Richard lives in Geneva and made this climb after his annual hiking trip with friends that he organizes. The first day we hiked up to the Sasc Fura hut and relaxed a bit before our early morning departure.
Photo #2: Early on the route we had clear fall weather, not too cold, and beautiful granite. The route is about 25 pitches and no harder than a few moves of 5.7.
Photo #3: The fog came in but the climbing continued to be excellent.
Photo #4: Every once in a while you could get more of a view of your surroundings
Photo #5: The position was really exciting. You really climbed directly up the edge of the ridge almost the whole way.
Photo #6: We reached the top in the fog and started rappelling our route immediately to avoid getting caught in the dark. We reached the base of the route well before dark and had this view of our peak.
Photo #7: I am standing in front of the North Ridge tired and happy. There are so many other aesthetic granite climbs to do here in the Bernina and Bregaglia region of Switzerland .
I own an old Ritchey P 22 and get compliments on it daily when I ride it, so here is a picture.
