By Michael on August 31, 2005
Dan and Janine Patitucci and Barbara and Steve Elia
Dan and Janine Patitucci and Barbara and Steve Elia came over this summer to do some climbing and shooting. It was a lot of fun hanging with this group. Although we didn’t always have the best weather, we got a fair amount done.
Photo #1: This is totally a posed photo, but it was sure fun to see if I could climb up to the top of this teeny and exposed tower on the Arête des Cosmiques.
Photo #2: This is a real shot. I was short roping Janine and Barbara (thanks for your patience) and Dan said stop right there. He got a cool shot framed by the rocks.
Photo #3: The rock pillars midway through the Arête des Cosmiques are beautiful. They jut up strikingly and are a warm golden color. Often the views are amazing of the whole Mt. Blanc Range , but not today. These photos were taken by Dan. Aren’t they amazing. Check out www.patitucciphoto.com
Posted in Uncategorized
By Michael on August 25, 2005
Rich Davis, 16-25 August 2005 Alpine Rock Climbing in Switzerland and France
Photo 1: Warming up our first day at a local crag called Dorenaz, near my home in Villars , Switzerland.
Photo 2: The next day we climbed the Mirroir d’Argentine, a 500 meter limestone face which really reminds you of a “Silvery Mirror”. We climbed “Directe”, a 16 pitch 5.7. It worked up a corner system with one classic chimney pitch before opening up to the face.
Photo 3: Once on the face it was smooth going, with the Solalex and the surrounding valley opening up below us.
Photo 4: On the Summit of the Mirroir d’Argentine, looking out towards Lake Geneva . We did the two extra pitches that put you directly on the summit called “Dessert” they go at 5.10a.
Photo 5: On our way down from the summit we stopped at an Alpage and ate a warm spaghetti Bolognaise. Then we continued the hike back to Solalex, our starting point. This was near Solalex with Rich posing in front of the Mirroir. There are many routes on this 500 m. (1500 ft.) face from 5.4 to 5.10 and the climbing is exceptional limestone.
Photo 6: The next day was spent at another local crag, Pierre de Moelle. It is at a little alpine pass 40 minutes from my home. You park at the pass and hike to the crag. Interestingly, at the pass, you can see camouflaged gun turrets built into the rock from WWII days. It was the perfect climbing area for Rich to make his first lead climbs. Here, he is “mock leading”, leading on top rope, before the real thing. Rich did great and went on to lead many 5.9’s and 5.10 a’s.
Photo 7: We then traveled to southeastern Switzerland where we were completely rained out. This was the first time this summer that I got rained out, however we made the best of it and spent the rest of our trip in southern France climbing on Limestone of Les Calanques by the beaches of the Mediterranean . Here Rich negotiates La Saphir, a great 5 pitch warm up climb climb that goes at 5.6. We then climbed, Pouce Integral, a 5 pitch 5.10 a that was first climbed by Gaston Rebuffat in 1939.
Photo 8: Our last day was spent at En Vau in Les Calanques. You hike in or take a ferry to get to this remote cove which has excellent climbing and swimming at the beach. The routes described in the last photo caption are in En Vau.
Posted in Rock Climbs, Trip Report
By Michael on July 17, 2005
Roody Rassmussen, 16, 17 July 2005 , Rock and Alpine Climbing, Chamonix
Photo #1: Roody is the president of Petzl America and while in France on business, we managed to squeeze in a few climbs. Day 1 saw us climb at the Aiguiette d’Argentiere. It is a nice hour long hike in with a great view of the Chamonix Valley . Here we are enjoying the view and just hanging out, climbing together and catching up.
Photo #2: Roody climbing the ridge up the Aiguiette d’Argentiere up an historic route first climbed in the 1800’s.
Photo #3: We participated in a rescue when a not helmet wearing climber who somehow created so much rope drag they could barely progress forward, pulled off a good size piece of rock that grazed over his head leaving a deep laceration. They came and got him within minutes and he walked over the Heli loading zone. As you can see the heli couldn’t land so hoisted the medic and patient up into the heli.
Photo #4: After a brief interlude, we were back at it on a nice layback.
Photo #5: Here is a climber on the summit of the Aiguiette.
Photo #6: Here are other climbers of sorts, mommy and baby Chamois.
Photo #7: Roody and I climbed the Arete des Cosmiques the following day and had beautiful weather.
Photo #8: We climbed most of the route in crampons, rock and snow. It is an alpine trick to leave them on rather than constantly taking them off and putting them on as you get to rock or snow.
Photo #9: Around the corner. What views!
Photo #10: The classic fin shaped spires of the Arete des Cosmiques.
Photo #11: Climbing the final chimneys to the summit.
Photo #12: Summit shot with Mont Blanc in the background. Eventually we did take off our crampons for good, but had grown accustomed to them even on the rock. Sometimes you actually have better traction, even on rock.
Posted in Alpine Climbs, Rock Climbs, Trip Report
By Michael on July 10, 2005
Dan and Shannon Morgan
Photo #1 Dan, his wife Elaine and their son Shannon came over to join me again this summer only with a new twist. Last year we did all alpine climbing, but this year Shannon , who still loves climbing, has also become impassioned by cycling and bike racing. So we planned to do some mountain riding and ride a stage of the Tour de France as well as a little climbing. The first few days were spent riding around my home town in Villars , Switzerland . The Tour de France came through there in 1997 on the way up the Col de la Croix. So, we rode a few days in the area, visiting the World Cycling Center which houses a brand new velodrome, an extensive cycling library, the UCI world headquarters, and hosts young cyclists from around the world in training camps. There is a great restaurant there too. We raced an uphill time trial at Grone where Shannon and I got to test ourselves again two Tour de France riders, Phonak’s Alex Moos and Johann Tschopp. Check out our results on www.swiss-trophy.ch and click on Grone.On the last day in Switzerland we rode the famous Col de La Croix and Col de Pillon on the way to Lenk.
Photo #2 As you can see, it was a little rainy. On the way up you could still see paint on the rode from the ’97 Tour. That was the year Jan Ullrich won and his name was still visible.
Photo #3 We made it to the top. Time to bundle up and head down to Les Diablerets before our second col.
Photo #4 Climbing up the Col de Pillon was a little colder.
Photo #5 But we were welcomed at the top to hot chocolate. There is a rustic log restaurant up there in the mist.
Photo #7 Then we arrived in Lenk where we visited and old college friend of Dan’s who started a school there called The Winter Term and Hohliebi Educational Programs. Check it out on the internet.
Photo #8 Then we headed to Chamonix and had some nice weather for climbing.
Photo #9 Back to the bikes on the last few days to watch the Tour de France. We rode up the Courchevel finish on Stage 10 to watch Lance Armstrong and the boys in blue. Here is a long lasting break about to get gobbled up on this uphill finish to Courchevel.
Photo #10 The blue train doing their work at the bottom of the climb. This stage was pivotal for Lance as he and his team had a textbook day and although he didn’t win the stage he put major hurt on his rivals. Thanks to the Morgan’s for these great photos.
Posted in Uncategorized
By Michael on July 2, 2005
Peter, Linda and Ben Alexander
Photo #1: Ben practicing ice climbing on the Mer de Glace Glacier. This is a great place to go for foundational skills with crampons and ice axes that will be important higher in the mountains.
Photo #2: Linda plying her trade with a trustworthy belayer, her husband Peter. She did really well on the ice and later rock climbing.
Photo #3: Up high, The Aiguille de Toule was our first alpine objective. We had great weather and views of Mt. Blanc , behind us.
Photo #4: The Boys high on the glacier somewhere between Italy and France .
Photo #5: On our final day we climbed a more technical peak, one of the most aesthetic climbs in the Mont Blanc Range , the Arete des Cosmiques. Normally done with 2 clients and on guide, it proved challenging and rewarding as we did it “en famille”. The photos were all from the family. Thanks.
Posted in Alpine Climbs, Trip Report
